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Humvee Madman
1,401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've been slowly working away making some bricks for a project I've wanted to do for a long time. I thought I'd share some pics of the old brickyard.:)

The brickyard

Just a big old white tile I used as a base, some DAS terracotta clay, a few tools and a brick form made out of some styrene strip. I tape the form to the tile, roll out a snake of clay and press it in the brick form. ( I'm making my bricks 12mm x 36mm for a 3 inch x 9 inch full scale brick. I've made the bricks only 5mm thick as once they are mortared in you can't see the lack of thickness.)

Adding some colour

The terracotta DAS is kinda of a brickish colour but I like to break up the uniform colour by dusting on some pastle chalks. The chalk will get dispersed once you add some texture to the bricks.

Adding Texture

While the clay is still in the form add some texture to the face of the bricks. I like to use a green scrubbing pad, old kitchen knife and anything else I can find to rough up the bricks and work the pastle chalk into the clay.

Cutting out.

I have marked the form every 36mm so its easy to mark the bricks for length. I then run a thin knife blade dipped in water around the form to seperate the bricks from the form.

Finishing off.

Once you get the form off use the thin blade to chop the bricks to length and to neaten up the edges.

The bricks will need to air dry for a day or so and will get considerebly lighter in colour as they dry. Once they are dry the ends and corners will nee a light sanding to knock off the squareness. ( I'm going for a used brick look.)

Putting the bricks to use.

I wanted to do a small brick fence post with a ball shaped finial on top. The bricks will be attached to a black foamcore core. I set out all the markings in white gel pen. I have found that silicon caulking works well to attach the bricks to the foamcore. I'm using a 2mm gap for the mortar which I'll put in with plaster of paris once all the bricks finished.

One of the hiccups I have found in using the thinner bricks is that when you go around an outside corner you have to make little cheater bricks to make up fo the lack of full depth bricks. Fortunately the dried DAS will bond with itself if you wet the join before adding new clay.

I don't know if anyone will be as nutty as me and try using any of this but maybe it might be of some use to someone. I'll add how I add the morar as I get the bricks finished. As always thanks for taking the time to have a look.

I'm back to making more bricks....

Only another 40 or so to make :banana :banana :banana


wave man TDY staff
41,776 Posts
You've now officially joined LG2 on Madman Isle, LOL. The two of you are onesix construction material barons. You guys could contract Storm to do all the interior wood finishing.

1,386 Posts
These look amazing?
Any thought of doing the whole brick and not just a "facade"?
What would be the dimensions of a full brick?
Would this material work ok if it were a full brick in terms of holding its shape and drying in its thicker application?

The texture you get on these bricks is amazing?


Humvee Madman
1,401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Jediguy -- Thanks

ActionMan -- Glad you like em. Can you give any information on the brick building kits you found? I have only seen one kit here in Australia and I stupidly didn't buy it! I've never seen another and I didn't write down the brand. I have been inspired by a model railroading gentelman Marcel Ackle(I think that's his name as I don't read Greman but thankfully pictures are universal!:) )His website Marcels website has some really fantastic photos of his work in 1:22.5 scale. His brickwork, not to mention everything else he can do, is really something special and worth a look.

mgbb, Tracker47 & Tommo -- Thanks for your kind comments and I hope you can find some use in the tutorial.

Tony Barton -- Thanks so much for the encouragment. Yep, this way takes ages and I'm not one who likes to make two of anything let alone squillions of duplicates. I've gotten faster as I go but I can only turn out about 36 bricks at a sitting before I go a little wacko. I don't think a brick two story town house is in my future. Though a nice big brick wall with a grubby faded painted on advertising sign and a whole bunch of tactical paint markings......

idreamoftoshiba, Matiascg --Thanks guys.

pukingdog -- Oh what evil things we could get up to. Glad you approve :banana

egonzinc -- Whole bricks are do-able. In fact I'm going to use them for the very top. DAS is very stable and doesn't warp or shrink much on drying. I'm using 36mm x 12mm x 18mm for a 9inch x 3inch x 4 1/2 inch bricks.

DYE-GSG90 -- Thanks, Glad to be of help.

Broadshore -- I hope it is of some help. Make sure you post your Middle eastern results as I'm sure they will be a little ripper.

Not much to report tonight but I think I've got my finail sorted out.

Finail on the left was my first choice but I think it's too small. It is a curtin rod end I bought at the craft store. On the right is the base cut off and a ubiquitous ping pong ball for the top bit. I think it looks more to scale. I have added some more bricks and I'm working on a form for some whole bricks. So little by little I'm getting there.

Thanks for stopping by.


(formerly DYE-GSG90)
2,525 Posts
ActionMan said:
Here are the bricks I mentioned:

Partially built and weathered:

Dan, sorry to interrupt your thread. I think your work is absolutely amazing. I wish I had your skill and patience!
Where'd you buy this kit? Is it available in the US or is it the kind of thing you have to special order online? Thanks!

65 Posts
I did something similar, but, I got the bricks off EBAY. Now with your inspiration, I may just make the bricks myself. This is a dungeon project, that I've put on the back burner for now.


My first attempt. I didn't like the look, I felt I needed to use some spacers for a little uniformity. The look I'm going for is a medieval dungeon. Initially, it was just going to be one wall and a base, then I decided to expand it to two connected walls (corner & deck). I wanted to add some props from various figures. Originally, this was only supposed to be a place where I can photograph horror type figures and use this as a background. I wish I could, but don't seem able to do anything simple/easy. I always make things more difficult for myself, in spite of my lack of abilities.

These are real concrete bricks, just in 1:6 scale. The pieces that don't break as I would like will still be used as street rubble for another diorama. I do my best to not throw away anything.

Just some of the props I'll use.

I'm a little bit of a neat freak. I went to Michael's. I didn't want a mess with the mortar, so I got a cake frosting decorator. I use it like they do, just with mortar.

This is the back side of dungeon wall 1. I used cheap thin wood dowels as spacers. This did two things for me, it allowed me to keep the spacing semi-equal throughout. The bricks and dowels are hot glued to the acrylic box frame (11x14"). The mortar can get expensive, so the wood & hot glue take up space which means less mortar is used without destroying the look of the wall.

This is the front of the wall. All that glue and the dowels will be covered up with mortar. Then I'll do a black India ink wash, as well as some mold. The floor (not shown) will have various washes as well.

Some of the props and Work In Progress (WIPs). Mongul is not done, but about 50% complete. I'll be using some Folk Art Metallic Sequin Black for the piping and bolts. His face and hands will be in a yellowish shade to keep in sync with some of his comic book aspects.

High Temp Hot Glue. High temperature since it allows you maximum time to get the placement just right before it sets. Burns the crap out fingers though. I use a big gun and big sticks. I like them big. ;) Sounds dirty, huh?

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