One Sixth Warriors Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

· Kit-Bash Krazy!
Joined
·
2,987 Posts
Yep, fully agree. Acrylics all the way, if you haven't got an airbrush by a spray can (matt black). Do a light coat of black, light coat of varnish, light coat of black and so on... a few times - this will ensure it doesn't just rub straight off.

Steve.
 

· Biohazardous
Joined
·
709 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
oh ok thanks a lot sounds good.
is there a certain kind of acrylics I should use ? or any kind will work? I will be painting on the gloves the darker green parts black so would matt black work better then flat black? thanks alot
 

· Kit-Bash Krazy!
Joined
·
2,987 Posts
Because I have an airbrush I simply use artists acrylics that I water down so they can be sprayed. If you're going to to buy a spray can, go for hobby stuff like Tamiya or Humbrol for example. It's always good to have a can of black acrylic spray handy, you can spray pretty much anything with it! :)
 

· Schizophrenic Modeler
Joined
·
4,723 Posts
is there a certain kind of acrylics I should use ? or any kind will work? I will be painting on the gloves the darker green parts black so would matt black work better then flat black? thanks alot
You should be able to use just about any kind of water-based acrylic paint, or those that state they clean up with water. Tamiya acrylics are pretty good, and you should be able to find them in a well-stocked hobby store; as a second choice, go with Testors' Acryl or Floquil acrylic paints (they're basically the same formula under different names). As far as matte vs. flat, they're basically different words for the same thing, a lusterless finish. Be sure to wash the gloves first in warm water and mild liquid soap to remove any oils that may be on the surface-- acrylics will adhere better to a clean surface.

David
 

· OSW Admin staff
Joined
·
5,760 Posts
What David said about washing your parts is paramount...you might even want to give them a rinse with rubbing alcohol before you start. When painting heads, is start with a soap wash and finish with a rub down with alcohol....:goodluck
 

· Riverboat engineman
Joined
·
1,954 Posts
Guys, maybe the wrong place , but speaking of matte finishes, I have a dog figure (German Shepard) who is shiny.
I have sprayed him with dull cote (Testor's) twice and still shiny!
What can I do? Is there a dull cote in acrylics?
 

· Schizophrenic Modeler
Joined
·
4,723 Posts
Guys, maybe the wrong place , but speaking of matte finishes, I have a dog figure (German Shepard) who is shiny.
I have sprayed him with dull cote (Testor's) twice and still shiny!
What can I do? Is there a dull cote in acrylics?
Vince, let's first try to figure out the problem with the Dull Cote. Did you follow the instructions on the can? Did you spray a light, misting coat? Did you shake the can first to mix the ingredients, and keep shaking during spraying? Dull Cote uses a chemical (a wax if I'm not mistaken) that forms microscopic crystals as the solvent evaporates, which creates the lusterless/flat finish. If it's not mixed properly, the lacquer in the can may create a shiny finish instead of a flat one. It's also possible that the can was mislabeled, and you got a can of Gloss Cote that had a Dull Cote label on it. In any case, I'd suggest that you try using Testors Model Master Lusterless Flat Clear spray No. 1960-- I've never had a problem with it when I've followed the directions.

If you want to try a flat acrylic overcoat, you can use Testors Acryl Flat Clear No. 4636 in the one ounce bottle, but my experience is that it doesn't render as flat a finish as spray lacquer.

David
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top