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Jawa
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You could try spraying a layer of clear coat sealant before you paint it. That will act somewhat like a primer and should allow the paint to adhere.
 

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Strike 333
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry, about being so to the point, but I was running out the door when I typed that. Anyway so far I have sanded the body and tried spraying Walmart primer and it didn't stick either. I will try the clear coat and see if that helps. Thanks.
 

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Jawa
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What kind of paint are you using? Also, what kind of body are you painting? I have applied Games Workshop (aka Citadel) brand paints to Sideshow and Dragon bodies without primer or sanding and it adhered perfectly.

If you have already sanded the body, I'm not sure why your paints would not be adhering.
 

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What kind of paint are you using? Also, what kind of body are you painting? I have applied Games Workshop (aka Citadel) brand paints to Sideshow and Dragon bodies without primer or sanding and it adhered perfectly.

If you have already sanded the body, I'm not sure why your paints would not be adhering.
Ditto to that. I'm really surprised the paint isn't sticking after a sanding. Stupid question - You washed the body off with soap and water after the sanding right?
 

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Strike 333
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Ditto to that. I'm really surprised the paint isn't sticking after a sanding. Stupid question - You washed the body off with soap and water after the sanding right?
I did clean the body, but not with soap and water. I'll be right back......
Oh and KneeJoint you know what the body looks like its the one from our last trade. BTW its not the bodys fault I've had this happen before.
 

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If it's not all gunked with paint why not try the pastel method? It could work if you are looking to just darken the body.

Sand the body with fine grit (600) paper. Grind the pastels to a powder and apply with a soft brush. Fix in place with flat fixative... I was just trying to find the post. It was a tutorial by phantom11.
 

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Strike 333
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've never used pastels before. (I can't find anyone who sells them.) So I've been using ground up color pencils, but they don't really work that great. I just tried the soap and water, I'll see if that helps.
 

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I've never used pastels before. (I can't find anyone who sells them.) So I've been using ground up color pencils, but they don't really work that great. I just tried the soap and water, I'll see if that helps.
I've used pastels to darken my CY Girl headsculpt. You can buy cheap ones from Michael's craft stores. Or any craft store. You grind them up and use a wet brush to spread them. If your figure's kind of pale or even just white, you can give the figure a tan. I don't know, however, if any sealant can keep the pastel job from being ruined if chipped.
 

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Your primer maybe your problem. That stuff from wal-mart isn't really made to use on figures. I would suggest getting a can of Mr. Super Clear. That's what we use on all our figures, plastic, vinyl, and resin. It's a clear coat made to work with Ball Jointed resin dolls. From there pastels will work fine.
Another problem could be humidity. If it's really humid where your at, your going to have a real problem getting paint to dry right no matter what your using.
A couple if summers ago the wife sat down and did 12 face ups over a four day weekend. But it was so humid in the shop they all peeled within day after we thought they were dry. I ended up installing an a/c unit in the shop just to control the humidity.
I would still try the MSC. At least that will protect your figure from getting stained by any pastels or paints your trying to use.
If you google the name a lot of BJD customizing supply store sell MSC. Junky Spot carries it sometimes but I'm not sure if Emory has any right now. MSC isn't cheap but well worth the price.

Paul
 

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Strike 333
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, I cleaned the figure and now the primer is sticking. But now I'm thinking about going with pastels. We don't have a Michael's in this town, (just wal-mart) But I have someone who said they would pick up some for me.:) I don't think the humidity is very high (75) I think I just need to clean the figure better.:bag The Mr. Super Clear sounds like it would be perfect, but for some reason everywhere it says "Not plastic-safe."
 

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You can't believe everything you read - ;)

Plastic picks up a lot of oil from your hands - In turn the oil picks up dirt and can build a barrier between the plastic and the paint. I've also found that some finishes that have been applied to plastics resist paints from rattle cans. A little soap and water can usually fix the first problem. If it's a finish that is causing the problem you may need to strip the plastic of it's paint first - OR, try using KILLS brand primer. KILLS is designed to cover oil based stains and paints. It has a shellac base and the solvent in it is alcohol - Dries super fast and sticks to just about anything.

As for pastels - Just about anyplace with an art department should have them. You don't need the high end pastels. I bought a box from the grocery store for $3 - they work very well.
 

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Strike 333
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You can't believe everything you read - ;)

Plastic picks up a lot of oil from your hands - In turn the oil picks up dirt and can build a barrier between the plastic and the paint. I've also found that some finishes that have been applied to plastics resist paints from rattle cans. A little soap and water can usually fix the first problem. If it's a finish that is causing the problem you may need to strip the plastic of it's paint first - OR, try using KILLS brand primer. KILLS is designed to cover oil based stains and paints. It has a shellac base and the solvent in it is alcohol - Dries super fast and sticks to just about anything.

As for pastels - Just about anyplace with an art department should have them. You don't need the high end pastels. I bought a box from the grocery store for $3 - they work very well.
I will check the art store and see if they got any in.

I cleaned the body and spray a flat clear and its sticking! Thanks guys!:D
 

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Well, I guess your problem is solved. Personally, I've used steel wool to sand away the shiny complexion and to provide a rough surface for Krylon Interior/Exterior Primer Spray. They work well and seem to be plastic safe. Also, after it's been primed you can use any base coat of spray acrylic-enamel paints- I like to use white- and then detail with water soluble oils.
 

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Strike 333
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks!

hum, ebay that's an idea!

Well, I don't know if the problem is solved, but it's sticking good enough for what I want. I do have steel wool, but I used 400 gt. sandpaper and it looked good. If I didn't need the body darker I would have just sanded and left it.:)

Great! Now it is standard SOP to post pictures of her when she's done ;) .
Paul
I will differently post when I'm done, but it's going to be a while before I'm finished! How about a sneak preview?
 
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