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Freakin custom figure god!
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I should have mentioned, to eliminate brush strokes thin your paint by about a third.
I like acrylics for basically one reason, speed. I'm the kind of person who wants instant results.
I have used oils also, and like them just fine except for the drying time.
 

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Nice tutorial. I've tried the one on your website a few... ahem... dozen times and always end up with something that would be hard to pass off as a zombie. Some of us are just all thumbs!!! ;)
 

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Inspector 12
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Thanks, John. That's awesome.

Are the pastels the oil-based type? I am guessing the chalk type would be extraordinarily difficult to seal.
 

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Freakin custom figure god!
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Thanks guy's
The pastels are indeed chalk.
The trick to sealing them is not to go overboard on the sealer.
A light dusting will be more than adequate.
 

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Nice tutorial. I've tried the one on your website a few... ahem... dozen times and always end up with something that would be hard to pass off as a zombie. Some of us are just all thumbs!!!
LOL, Sean, no kidding, my first attempt awhile back, that I only let John look at was quite amusing.

John was most kind with his comments to. But it was utter crap, IIDSSMS. ;)
 

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Freakin custom figure god!
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Hey Jeff,
For the lips try using your flesh color with a little red, and just a touch of brown.
Thin this by half then keep applying allowing drying between coats until you have the desired shade.
 

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boot25 -

Wow, you are very talented ... and a generous teacher!

How do you appy the pastels ( with a brush?) ... how do you seal the pastels , so they dont rub off?

Have you ever tried using Urathanes?

do you airbrush at all?
 

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Wow! Thanks for the tutorial! Your oil painting tutorial was also a huge help to me. BTW, Winsor Newton has fast drying oils that are pretty good for slow painters like me (ie, enough time to play, but you don't have to wait weeks to dry), but this new method looks both forgiving and blazing fast. And none of the nasty fumes associated with oil painting! Can't wait to try it. Thanks again!
 

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It's amazing how different the original looks from the finished product. Looks nearly like a totally different sculpt all together.
 

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Inspector 12
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John, can you give us a brief tut on the acetone stripping process? I have tried with limited success to strip the factory paint.

What do you use? How long do you soak it (if it all)? Do you have to do any scraping or other method to remove stubborn paint? Any other helpful hints?
 

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Freakin custom figure god!
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Ok,
Here's how I strip a sculpt.
You can find acetone in the paint dept. at any Home Depot.
Keep in mind this is nasty stuff.Use it in a well ventilated area, and use rubber gloves.
I pour about an inch of it in a safe container(don't use plastic it will melt).Place the head in the acetone and let it sit for about 30 seconds. Next scrub it with an old toothbrush and the paint should come right off. The whole process should take less than 2 minutes.
 

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Cellulose car paint thinners works well for stripping factory paint too boot.i find it Usually dissolves the acrillic used on DML sculps in seconds.Again,can be nasty on the lungs though.


smurf.
 

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First of all, great tutorial (even though there are red x's now).

I'm bookmarking this for my use later.

John, I've seen your work on Red Planet Toys and it's awesome.

I appreciate the tutorial. It's helpful knowing what mixtures to use and how to strip a head.

Jeff
 

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hey boot can you reupload the pics of take some new ones while you are painting a sculpt. it's better with visuals
 
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