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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all I understand that many of you wont be explosive experts but I need some advice on how I would accurately depict a C4 explosive satchel charge i.e. det cord, det/firing caps etc, bear in mind this is for my clearance diver many thanks here is something I knocked up recently as you can see from the attached images.



 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thanks for your help but from the link you attached they are more over ground explosive types and IEDs more then under water charge types, have you got access to any other examples of under water charges? I found this example as seen in the attached images but I don't know how they are rigged up with the likes of det cord etc cms-image-000009106.jpg Plus the attached image url https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/41/84/33/418433ab071700ae9cb6cd01455b5e56.jpg
 

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A Stickler for Accuracy
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So, I'm admittedly an expert in above-water explosives, but everything that we were taught about subsurface charges are reflected in those two pictures.

-They are dual primed, meaning that there are two caps in the charge on separate initiating systems.
-They are non-electric systems, as electric systems are not compatible with water. As a matter of fact, the charge in the bottom picture uses shock tube, which is a completely self contained, waterproof system that is almost (ALMOST!) impervious to moisture, making it ideal for subsurface use.
-While the actual waterproofing of the charge is obscured by the 100 MPH tape that holds the charge together, the good news for you is that you only need to build the proper shaped charge in 1:6, then wrap it neatly in whatever you're using for OD Green 100 MPH tape and you're good.

1:6 scale shock tube will be easy as you just need to get the proper size electrical wire in OD green to use as the actual tube, and you won't need to make the blasting cap that is permanently attached to the tube, as that will be inserted into the charge, so won't be visible. The only detailed work that you'll need to work on is the fuse igniter. Speaking of the fuse igniter, I'm not sure how that is waterproofed for use in maritime operations, but I'm sure that you can find some images on the interwebs.

Below are some images of the MDI (Modernized Demolition Initiator) system that is currently in use by US forces.

http://www.pica.army.mil/pmccs/SupportMunitions/_images/mdi2.jpg

http://www.soldiercombatskills.com/images/fm3-21-75_img_204.jpg

One more point, you mentioned satchel charges in the title of your thread, but posted pictures of specially constructed charges. Just something to think about; unless your figure is planning to toss an explosive into a bunker, a satchel charge is not the preferred method of clearing an obstacle. If the objective is to defeat an identified obstacle, the breacher has likely constructed charges specifically tailored to take out that target.
 

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There's the stuff for a nice, on the money build. Finding small gauge hook up wire with an OD jacket looks like a problem. It's been a while since I have done it, but extruding plastic sprue is how we used to make "wire", antennae, handles, and small cables and hoses for plastic models. Getting long lengths in proper diameter, would be sort of trial and error.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Many thanks for your reply, yes you have a good point when you refer to my mistake of the word 'satchel' as I am thinking of a satchel bag to contain my explosives as seen in this small attached image https://i0.wp.com/www.defensemedian...r-Demolition-Team-Training.jpg?resize=269,300, I have read your reply and tried to take as much of it on board but to try and put it into practice is going to be tricky on my part
 

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Yes, I am also very very intrigued as to how you have made your C4 explosives as they sooo look the part
https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&...y.com/&usg=AFQjCNHzCFy7m0lhmHrLMtH9JRrz3dqzwAThis link should help with the label, you may want to resize them as they come out a little underscale they should be about 47/48mm. Once you cut them out place some Blu-Tac or similar,( Plasticine would do) in the wrapper and seal it with a little clear glue, then simply cut out a small rectangle of Cling Wrap/ Glad Wrap and wrap it. Done 2017-05-02 03.29.29.jpg 2017-05-02 03.55.01.jpg Hope this helps , i will post what i can on the bag shortly, glad you like it James Cheers.
 

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Get to know how the real one first, here is some reference pics. US-WW2-Navy-USN-UDT-Underwater-Demolition-Team.jpg US-WW2-Navy-USN-UDT-Underwater-Demolition-Team-_1.jpg US-WW2-Navy-USN-UDT-Underwater-Demolition-Team-_57.jpg . Basically it,s a simple bag to begin with. Cut out your pieces for the bag section, hem the top of each piece then sew together to form a box then finally sew the bottom piece on, i,m no seamstress so my sewing terms and skills are limited. Next, cut out the flap and sew a hem around the entire piece, you can sew the flap on towards the end. Next, sew the strap material on(no need to sew all the way ) just a few stitches here and there to keep it in place. At this stage you could put the hardware on the strap. Next, sew the small side straps on, 3 each side.Then attach ring and hooks to bag, hand sewing is the better choice for the smaller piece,s.. Sew flap on then carefully place a flat solid piece of wood or similar in the bag so that the front of the bag is taught and carefully apply the ink stamp label, careful not to smudge. Next, go to fridge and have a drink and let the ink dry. Then finally sew the front straps on. Done. The material i used was from a pair of Australian Army swim trunks i got for $2.00 at Army Disposals. These bags were used in WW11 Korea Vietnam the materials and colours changed, i have seen OD, Jungle green grey , khaki, interesting to note that they also had a buoyancy bladder incorporated in the bag that the diver could adjust depending on depth. 2017-05-02 05.14.07.jpg 2017-05-02 05.08.07.jpg 2017-05-02 03.57.32.jpg The hardware i used was from a old 21C stabo rig, the Hooks were rough cut with tin snips and filed down to shape. 2017-05-02 03.59.15.jpg The label was done with a make your own stamp kit. Hope this help,s James. Please PM me if you have any questions , i dont get on every day but will return any msg.Thanks for your interest, Cheers:)
 

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There's the stuff for a nice, on the money build. Finding small gauge hook up wire with an OD jacket looks like a problem.
I get wire from old parallel printer cables. The cables are being scrapped so you can get them for free, the internal wires are very thin, and there are 25 wires in each cable - each of a different colour or pattern.





I've used them here in this briefcase bomb.



More of my work can be found at One Sixth Arsenal
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Stunning job, I cant fault that, looks superb, great job, yeah it does help, as for a bag I already have a 1/6 scale black satchel bag for the job, as for the C4 I don't think mine would look any where near as good as yours if I attempted to make some, and I don't have access to a good quality printer, I am rubbish at scratch building things, as for assembling and custom building 1/6 scale accessories etc not an issue, mine would look an embarrassment compared to yours
 

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Give it go, your got nothing to lose:goodluck
Stunning job, I cant fault that, looks superb, great job, yeah it does help, as for a bag I already have a 1/6 scale black satchel bag for the job, as for the C4 I don't think mine would look any where near as good as yours if I attempted to make some, and I don't have access to a good quality printer, I am rubbish at scratch building things, as for assembling and custom building 1/6 scale accessories etc not an issue, mine would look an embarrassment compared to yours
 
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