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I got you "covered" ! (OSW Staff)
5,758 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is a tutorial for constructing a MOVABLE turret for the Hasbro Humvee. It includes instructions and pictures.
This is what the tutorial aims to accomplish:

Before some spec NAZI jumps all over me for inaccurate measurements, let me explain how I end up with the measurements that I use..
I have a TAMIYA 1/35th scale slantback HUMVEE. It would be easy to measure the 1/35th pieces and then convert them to 1/6th , but at times we can NOT do that because the Hasbro Humvee isn't really true 1/6th scale. In some cases, such as the turret, I use comparative measures. I measure the roof width of the 1/35th Humvee and then the width of the Hasbro Roof. I then measure the 1/35th turret and plug the numbers in to get the one I need. Some parts I can use 1/35th to 1/6th real conversion.......such as thickness of parts.

This picture has been sized to the correct dimensions:
I will also tell you what thickness styrene you'll need to use.
Download or save the image to your hardrive. Use a photo editing program and re-size the photo to:
WIDTH: 8.139 inches
Height: 8.653 inches
Print it on CARD STOCK and cut and use the sections as templates on the styrene:

For the first step : copy the correct size picture on card stock .
Ignore the triangular gun mount for now. '
For ease of cutting we'll use .040 styrene. (Normally I would use thicker styrene, but I have the tools that can handle cutting it. Some of you may not, so I'll try to make this so anyone can do it.) PRETEND the triangular mount is NOT there and just connect the circle to the bottom.
Cut the template out and trace it on a piece of .040 styrene......6 (six) of these will be needed. After you cut the first one ...use it and a scribe to cut out the other 5.

After sizing and printing the photo on card stock , cut it out so it looks like this:

I then used 2 sided tape and taped the card stock onto a piece of .040 styrene. I used a sharp pointed scribe and CAREFULLY traced the cutout. A couple times around will give you a good start line. You can remove the cutout and set it aside may need it to trace back onto the styrene.
Keep tracing your line with the scribe until you can cut or pull the outline apart EASILY.
It should look like this: THE LOWER shape on the bottom right should be a TRIANGLE : adjust the lines to make one.

It doesn't have to be perfect: you can sand or dremel any areas that need it.


If you are ready , and your styrene cutout is as good as it will get......glue it to another piece of .040 styrene. AFTER it dries use the top piece and again trace and cutout the 2nd piece. SAND AND FINISH to make uniform where needed.
After you are satisfied......Do it twice more.
You should have 4 exact pieces for a .160 thickness.

The first piece glued to a sheet of .040 styrene:

Carefully cut out the same area again.
If you can get a good clean cut on this piece, save it for later.

I'm using MOSTLY .040 styrene to help you save on buying packages of different thickness styrene. Try to use every scrap left after cutting!

This is what 4 sections cut, glued, and sanded even will look like:

Tape your 4 section piece to styrene piece #5......CUT THE OUTSIDE

Go print another turret picture on card stock.
The card stock should be cut to look like this:
Styrene piece #5 should look like this:

YOU can remove the small triangle at this time.
CAREFULLY tape the card -stock cut-out onto the piece of styrene. You can use regular tape and tape the card stock edges to the styrene.Align the circular edges as close as possible.
2 or 3 passes with the scribe should give you a good groove to trace. You can remove the card stock and continue scribing UNTIL the pieces are cut all the way through. One piece of .040 is too weak to try and wiggle the circle out. So just keep tracing until it's free.:

After cutting it should look like this:

GLUE this piece to sheet # 6 of .040 styrene and let dry.

I got you "covered" ! (OSW Staff)
5,758 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
OK, the second sheet glued and cut.....except the small triangle, you can cut that out too.:

now for the tricky part. Making the small lip that surrounds the kidney shaped opening.
Take the glued 4 section piece you should have and trace the kidney shape on CARD STOCK:

Now, get something 1/4inch can use a couple strips of .040 styrene glued together.....I have a brass bar.....
ALIGN the 1/4inch space along the traced kidney and dot a line all around it:

Cut along the dotted line. It should look like this:

you should have 2 circular pices of .040 styrene'll need them both.
USE the 2-sided tape and tape down the kidney cut-out:

Scribe it until it breaks free.
Now....grab one the ORIGINAL 4 kidney shapes and carfully align it on the LARGER kidney shape so the side spaces appear equadistant.:

CAREFULLY scribe the shape.
You should end up with something looking like this:

GLUE this shape on the other circular piece of .040 styrene you should have.

Now...take and scribe both inside and outside.When finished you'll have two .040 pieces glued like this:

Shape the OUTSIDE with sandpaper until you are satisfied and the results look fairly even.
There should be 3 complete pieces now:

The kidney trim will slide over and be glued here:

The other piece will go on top of the 4 section piece like this:

Finally, it's starting to add depth and dimension.

Using your spare styrene.....cut 1 strip 1/2 inch wide by 8 inches long.
Cut 4 strips 1/4 inch wide by 8 inches long.

GLUE the 4 (1/4 x 8) strips together and let dry.
These parts will be used for the rail that the triangular gun mount attaches to

Cut another 1/4 inch wide strip, but make this one 4.5 (4 1/2) inches long.
Glue it to the 4 strips 1/4 inch wide.
Make sure one end is perfectly square.

If you don't like the seam lines left after stacking the strips, just use a flat tool and wipe some Squadron Green Putty along both seam sides and let harden. Sand off the excess for a smooth solid looking piece:

Trim and Glue the 1/2 inch wide strip according to the card copy:

The strip will have a slight rise: Don't ask me why...that's how it is on the Tamiya 1/35th scale model.
Use a Clamp if you need to hold down the area that starts to rise.
TRY to get it glued down as close to the rim edge as possible:

I got you "covered" ! (OSW Staff)
5,758 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The rail attached:

Remember all those kidney shaped cut-outs? Hope you saved them:


NOTICE in the card stock photo the lip that runs around the bottom of the triangular mount. OMIT this lip and cut out the part so it looks like the photo above.

Place your cutout on another piece of card stock and trace a line 1/16th of an inch wide all the way around. (Mine looks bigger is but it was too big);

CUT out the new LIP and tape it to a piece of .040 styrene (not a kidney shape). When tracing onto the styrene make the lines longer . It will look like this:

After cutting it will look like this:

The extra length is needed because this first base piece will also go up and OVER the rail. (a little difficult).

These will be used for the triangle. Not counting the base that has already been made.......9 will be needed:

So...we need 9 (nine) of these:

USING one of the above pieces of styrene , place it on your elongated base plate and make sure there is a 1/16 edge all the way around INCLUDING the curved rounded ends.

After cutting and sanding for a smooth finish.....CONSULT the photo...and glue the base plate ON TOP of the rail.
THIS MUST BE COMPLETELY DRY for the next step.

I used my fingers and pre-pressed the base plate down as far and tight as I could. Before glueing I used a hair dryer on high/hot to warm the hanging base plate. When it was more bendable due to the heat IUSED A PIECE OF WOOD AND 2 CLAMPS and got the base piece as close to the rail as possible and cemented it down:

What the base plate glued down tight should look like:

NOTICE the difference in the above pieces.
4 of the one on the left will be needed and 5 of the one on the right.
WHEN GLUEING THE PIECES of .040 styrene , glue only 1 piece to another......then sand even and smooth so all the lines and curves match nicely. Then add another piece after those have dried.

THE 4 PIECE section is smaller because it will go on the base plate only so will have to mark where it lays FLAT (get as close to the rise in the base plate as possible).

DO NOT glue any to the base plate. Eight will be glued together first. The last piece , the top need grooves cut into it before cementing it to the others.

Time to use this card-stock picture:

Tape this to 1 of your pieces and cut in the grooves that run up each wing:

After you cut them you should have: 4 pieces of the short wing glued together. 4 pieces of the long wings glued together and the 1 with the grooves.:

Time to glue all of them .....short wings on the bottom , then the long wings, then finally the top piece will be the lone .040 with the grooves in it!:

Notice the rough look of the completed stack. Now take some sandpaper or nail file and start smoothing and evening the rough edges.
Also...try to round over the top edges......

The turret gun mount:
Marking spot for post drilling:

Starting a small guide hole:

The turret gun mount: Slightly rounded edges, sanded and marked for weapon post:

NOTE: I haven't applied Squadron Green Putty along the edges yet.

A 1/2 inch hole is needed to be drilled in the mount. MARK AND MEASURE carefully before drilling.
When done it should look like this:

A piece of PLASTRUCT 1/2 inch BUTYRATE TUBING (TB-16) will be cemented in the hole. This will house a 3/8 inch piece of STYRENE tubing.

The grooves in the side will be filled with the putty and sanded smooth.

3/16th inch STYRENE Tubing
1/16th Brass Rod.
1/8th Styrene rod
1/16th Styrene rod
3/16ths Styrene rod
Squadron Green Putty applied to the mount:

DO NOT CEMENT the mount until the 1/2inch tube has been cemented and the putty has been sanded ....

I got you "covered" ! (OSW Staff)
5,758 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·

Let's tackle the LARGE Hatch!!

COPY this to your harddrive and using a photo editing program re-size it to:

HEIGHT: 5.944 inches
WIDTH: 5.222 inches.

Print it on card stock and cut it out( NOTICE the hinge and the hand grasp have been removed ) and tape it to a piece of .040 styrene:


After cutting ...take piece 1 and cement it to Piece 2:

After drying and cutting and sanding....take the 2 part piece set it aside.

Lets make the small TEARDROP hatch .
Cut out the teardrop from the card stock copy and TRACE it onto a piece of .040 styrene:

Rough cut it out with a good pair of scissors:

Sand and smooth until you've eliminated the pencil mark. Take piece 1 and glue it to piece 2.( ONLY 2 ARE NEEDED ).

Consult the card copy and Glue the 2 piece TEAR in place:

OK. This is what we've got.....
NOTE: the MOUNT and the LARGE HATCH are NOT cemented!!
They are there just for sizing and re-adjusting if needed:

Ok so this what we've needed so far..all .040 styrene:
6 Turret sections are needed.
4 for the base
2 for the top rings.
The turret Mount is 9 triangular pieces and 1 base piece.
The lower right hand corner of the turret is a TRIANGLE
2 sections are needed for the LARGE KIDNEY HATCH******************
2 pieces are needed for the TEAR DROP HATCH
2 SECTIONS are needed for the KIDNEY RING.

PM me if you have any questions.
Take the 2 piece (2 pieces of .040) HATCH Section:

PLACE the HATCH on top of the TURRET and hold it where the placement will be. CAREFULLY turn it over and trace the inside of the HATCH HOLE ONTO the 2 piece HATCH section. THIS trace will be needed for correct HINGE placement:

NOW....take the card-stock cutout and place it on top of the HATCH section:

USING a ruler and a BLADE slice through the card-stock into the HATCH section right down the seam line :

USING the line started with the BLADE continue cutting the HATCH section:

The 2 half sections of the HATCH:

This part is very tedious but quite easy.
First take a 1/8th inch STYRENE tube and mark 1/2 inch increments on it:

NOW cement 2 3/8ths inch WIDE pieces of .040 styrene together. Make 2 of these:

A .030 THICK BRASS STRIP will be needed. It will be placed up against the 2 piece STYRENE strip and the 1/2 inch piece of tube laid ON THE BRASS and cemented to the strip:

MARKING where the next tube will go with a pencil (it goes on the other strip directly below the first tube on the other strip:

4 tubes on each strip will be needed:

THE BRASS STRIP allows for the offsetting required to allow the hinge to bend completely:

TAKE YOUR TIME and allow each tube to dry a little before going to the next. You can check the alignment with a 1/16th piece of BRASS ROD:

REMEMBER tracing the hatch line on the underside? THIS is where the hinge must fit inside the pencil line or it won't close properly.
ALIGN the brass rod on the cut line of the 2 half sections.....when satisfied with center line placement use some liquid cement and apply it to the BACK side of the hinges:

When it's dry it should do this:

I added a strip of .040 styrene to each top half edge .....just for a cleaner look:

THE UNDERSIDE of the HATCH with the BRASS rod removed:

Time to make the main Hatch open and close. Place the HATCH on the turret EXACTLY where you want it to go. Make sure it will open and close and clear each side of the turret.:

I am making this so the hatch can be removed.
When you are satisfied with the placement....take a piece of 3/16ths inch styrene tube and lay it along the hatch edge. Draw a line where the tube rests:

A piece of .040 thick styrene by 3/8ths inch wide will be needed and cemented on top of the HATCH where it will meet the tube:

NOTICE the length of the 3/16 tube. The extra ends are for the PLASTRUCT snap on fittings for 3/16 tube:

Mark and drill the holes for the snap-on fittings. Align everything up BEFORE glueing the tube to the HATCH.
LEAVE it in place and apply some liquid cement. DO NOT get any cement on the fittings. Let it set before removing. ADD some more cement to the underside of the tube.

It's starting to look like a turret!

Here's what it looks like so far:

The Pedestal mount is not cemented's just setting on the base for now:

Notice how the hatch opens then folds in on top of itself:

Another hinge similar to the one on the LARGE HATCH could have been used to open and close....but, it would have been permanent because there isn't any leeway to remove the hinge pin .By using the PLASTRUCT 3/16th snap-ons the HATCH not only opens and closes , but can be completely removed :

I got you "covered" ! (OSW Staff)
5,758 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
First a wood block 1 1/4 inches wide by 1 3/4 inches high is needed to form the support mount for the gun cradle:

Next cut a strip of .040 styrene 4 inches long by 1 1/4 inches wide.
Mark the center
Also draw a line 5/8 inches wide along the length of the 4 inch strip(this is the front):

BOIL some water. After it reaches a boil turn it off and put the 4 inch strip in for a minute or so. Take it out and center the block of wood on it and bend the sides up. Use some rubber bands to keep it tight to the wood:

Re-boil the water. After it boils turn it off again and put the block back in for a minute.
Leave it wrapped while you make the next part:
This will be one of the side wings for the piece attached to the wood:

Use the photo resizing method and make this piece:
1 1/4 inches high and 1 inch wide. Print it and cut it out.

REMOVE the rubber bands and HOLD the styrene piece in place.Using the wing cut-out TRACE the shape onto one side, then flip the cutout and trace it on the other side:

BE SURE TO MARK the little hole !

The styrene wings will look like this on each side:

If you slightly unfold the shape you can trim the 5/8 line that was put on the 4 inch piece:

Use a scissors to trim the wings ...USE sandpaper to finish and round the tips.

Well, I thought I'd do this a little different:
This is what we are aiming for:

To get to this point, the following parts are needed:
TB-12 : 1 piece 3/8ths tube
MR-125 : 1 Piece 1/8th styrene rod
SX-4 : 1 package
F-3 : 2 packages( 1 pack for mount, 1 pack for cradle)
F-12 : 1 piece
MR-80 : 1 piece .080 styrene rod
3/16ths Styrene tube (for cradle)

Assuming you've made the "U" shape mount using the wood...
like this:

And you've traced the wing area and MARKED the little hole:

Drill a SMALL starter hole in the wing:

After a small starter hole...drill the hole with a 1/8th drill bit:

Drill both wings.

Cut another strip of .040 ...this one 5 inches by 1 1/4 inches...

Boil the water. After a boil, turn it off and put the strip in for 2 minutes.
USING THE ORIGINAL shape ...put it back on the wood block...add the SECOND strip ..wrapping around the first and securing with wood and rubber bands:

Submerge the block in the HOT water for another 2 minutes.
This is what you should have:

TRIM the original mount to the proper shape(the one where the wings were traced on):

GLUE the two together:

Trim and shape so the 2 glued pieces are 1:

Cut some .040 strips(2 pieces glued together) so they have 45 degree angles on each end...5/16 wide by 1/4 long:

Use the block of wood to achieve SQARE and glue the braces :

GET A SCRAP of .040 styrene and drill a 1/8th hole in it.
Insert PLASTRUCT part # F-3 in the hole.
Notice on the other side it protrudes slightly?
SAND this smooth.
DO this to 2 parts.
Now insert one into each side wing from the inside:

Do NOT worry about the ouside yet: LEAVE IT UNDRILLED
With the inserts in it should look like this:

Find the center on the bottom and "X" maeks the spot:

Drill a small starter hole:

After the starter hole..drill again with a 1/4inch drill bit:

Insert PLASTRUCT part # SX-4 Into the top:

Cut some PLASTRUCT tube TB-12 to the desired length( I used 2 inches) and insert part # SX-4 into each end:

Cut a length of PLASTRUCT MR-125 and glue it into the MOUNT hole:

Then insert the assembly into the TB-12...all the way to the bottom into the bottom SX-4 DO NOT GLUE!

This will leave us at this point:

Finishing the GUNMOUNT:
Parts needed:
Plastruct F-3 1pack
Plastruct F-2 1 pack
Plastruct TB-3 (1)
Plastruct MIW-1 (1)
1/16 th styrene rod
2-56 3/8ths long Brass hex head bolts
2-56 Flat washers
ALUMINUM Nylon insert lock nuts for 2-56
Westrim Crafts # 5590/3 24" flat link neck chain

This is what we are trying to make:

Start with the wing pattern:

USE the photo sizing trick . Make this 2 3/4 wide x 5/8 high.
Cut out 2 of these from .040 styrene.
NOTICE the marking holes. The rear hole, next hole and the hole in the middle are in EXACT position.

YOU MUST MARK where the front hole will align with whatever weapon you decide to use.
I am marking the front hole for the DML M2:

After marking drill the holes with a small pilot hole:

DRILL the rear hole....the center hole and the newly marked front hole all with a 1/8th drill bit. Insert Plastruct F-3 into the front and rear holes:

The hole second from the rear is drilled with a 1/16th drill bit.

Use a piece of 3/8ths angle and mark and measure the legnth along the wing:

Glue a piece to EACH wing:

ATTACH each wing to the Cradle Mount. NOTICE THE GAP:

Tighten the nuts so the wings are secure. This gap will be filled when a sized piece of .040 styrene is cut and cemented to the wings:

After it dries , sand and shape square.


This piece , when sized will be 1 1/8 " wide x 3/8ths " high. The picture is of a piece too big by 1/8.( IF you use this pic...just shave 1/16th off each side).

Now cement a longer piece of 1/16th styrene rod to the top:

For the next part of this piece, glue a piece of 1/4 inch deep channel , and cut out the shape sshown:

Insert the yoke bar into the small holes in the rear and snap a PLASTRUCT part # F-2 onto each side:

Making the ammo box plate:

as you can see...except for the protruding top piece it measures 1 inch high by 2 inches wide.:

I was able to slightly bend the top piece by using a lighter to heat it. I also carved out where the nut will be on the cradle mount.

Detremine where the plate will attach:

Measure and glue the proper sized spacers.

I utilized the hole in the wing and aligned it with a piece of 3/16ths tubing for the spacer.

Using the 3/32nds tube with wire insert...I made a pin to insert into the rear holes of the mount and the M2:

The chain is from Michaels.( Thanks Chris)

I got you "covered" ! (OSW Staff)
5,758 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·

1 2pound 7 ounce COFFEE CAN and plastic lid
1 Humvee Roof
.040 styrene.

The bottom of the can will be used for the circle to be cut in the HUMVEE ROOF
THE front rim will be 2.5 inches from the FRONT edge of the roof:

Measure the width of the roof and place the can so the roof sides are equal distance from the can edges.

SCRIBE around the can:

Be Patient......this takes quite a while because the roof is .080 thick:
After a few times around the can, it can be removed ......just keep going around and around:


Set the roof aside.

This next part is not necessary:
It is an outer ring that is cemented to the top of the roof. It is made 0f .040 gives the actual turret some separtion from the roof itself.
To make it:
USE a compass and the can lid:

OPEN the compass from the center of the lid to the very edge.
Then using the compass.....make this size circle on a piece of CARDSTOCK and a piece of .040 STYRENE:

USING the CARSTOCK and STYRENE circles.....add another circle 3/8ths of an inch larger:

Cut the outer circle on the CARDSTOCK. Use some double sided tape and stick it on the LARGER STYRENE CIRCLE:

Carefully scribe around the cardstock several times until the STYRENE CIRCLE comes free:

Now, take the can and place it on the STYRENE smaller circle and scribe it:

The result is the roof ring that will be cemented on TOP of the roof:

Now for the turret ring:
Make 6 strips of .040 styrene 10 inches long by 1/2 inch wide:

Place 1 strip on the bottom of the can . Secure it with rubber bands:

Boil some water. After it boils ..turn off the heat and place the can in the water for 1 minute. ( I filled the can with sand for weight):

Take the strip and place it the roof cutout. Trim it so it fills 1/2 the circle:

Do it agian for strip 2:

THE 3rd strip is cut to size and centered and cemented to the seam where 1 and 2 meet:

The same is done with strip 4:
REMEMBER only glue strips 3 and 4 to 1 and 2.

Strips 5 and 6 done the same way:

After they are dry it should look like this:

Take the ring and center it on the BOTTOM of the turret....CEMENT it when you are satisfied with placement:

After Cementing:

Place the turret with the ring into the roof hole:

The finished turret:

2,189 Posts
That's awesome, I don't have the Hasbro Humvee(I have the Power Team one) but it's great to see how you built that, Your skills with styrene are amazing!

OSW Trade Police (Retired)
11,749 Posts

Clearly you went through a lot of trouble to present to us this complete tutorial.

It's fantastic. Way beyond my skills mind you, but fantastic nonetheless.

What I'm most impressed by of course, is that you and the many others like you, have chosen to provide this detailed and thorough tutorial with no thought of personal gain.

On behalf of the entire OSW thank you.


New Clone (OSW Staff)
14,439 Posts
Holy crap. What a great tutorial. Very detailed and well thought out. Thanks for taking the time to put this out for us.

I got you "covered" ! (OSW Staff)
5,758 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
When the 'RED X's' appear it means CLUBPHOTO is having Technical Difficulties. I called them and they said they were moving photos to a different server and it should be fine within 24 hours.

Time Lord Of Flatbush
5,917 Posts
Absolutely INSANE Butch ! :wideyes :wideyes :jawdrop
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