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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am fairly new so please be gentle with me as I do not know the thoughts of the forum on my intended application of the advice i hopfully will recieve. The type of resin best for fine detail,and the best way to overcome air bubbles or whatever you have worry about in casting, also advice on molds and or some sites that could help me along.

I would like to Cast some pieces i have sculpted out of clay, mostly armour for scifi type bashes. But i would also like to recast some items that i have been able to pick up like the Da Joint sets. But as they are becoming rare items i would likr to recast some parts for my own use.

So there you have it im not out for financial gain on recast i would like the rest of you guys keep the hobby spending under control. If you can not find the peices anymore from sets that are no longer in production is there any harm as you are not in compition.

Please as I said be gentle if I am touching on a sensetive subject. I appologise as i have seen a couple of posts ranting about recasters but if you dont ask you dont know

Ray (RAC57)
 

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Casting is a fun yet annoying process! For molds that pick up detail well, I use room temperature vulcanizing silicone (RTV). I have not had much luck with urethane molds. I personally use the RTV silicone from MicroMark but have known others to use Smooth-On products (click here for their page on mold making). Searching around on the web should find you many pages/tutorials on moldmaking. It is basically just building a box, supporting your master in clay, and pouring your properly mixed rubber into the box. Just remember to wait the prescribed amount of time for the mold to cure and always use the recommended release agents for the rubber being used.

At the moment I use Por-A-Kast II polyurethane casting resin made by Pathway Polymers. This was recommended to me by Steve from Panzerwerks. It is an equal mix two part resin that cures white. It demolds in about 1/2 hour depending on conditions and can be post-cured (i.e. baked when your done). Bubbling can be eliminated with a pressure pot to squeeze all the bubbles out. A properly thought out mold will also help avoid trapping bubbles. This is difficult and I still haven't mastered that task yet. The hard part is that there is little time for air to escape as with the resin I use the gel time is 3-5 minutes.

Simple tips are always wear gloves and some type of eye protection. You want to avoid any resin in your eye especially mixed, ready to cast resin. If the mold picks up the detail the resin will grab it as well. I mean if you have a greasy thumb print on your master the mold will pick it up and then all your castings will have your thumb print on them.

As far as recasting goes, you're right it is a sensitive subject. I'm no copyright expert but there is a "fair use policy" somewhere in section 106-108 of the US copyright law. I'll use the example my 8th grade home-ec teacher gave me, "you can embroider the mickey mouse logo on a sweatshirt for yourself but you can't ever sell or give that sweatshirt away without paying Disney." You can basically make it for yourself but you can never ever sell it or transfer ownership of your pirated version of another persons intellectual property without their expressed permission (works of art/sculptures included). You pretty much have to burn/destroy it when you're done with life or pay royalties. That's just the way it's been explained to me.

Good luck....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thanks for your tips fusilier1944. Your links and suggestions of the resin to use is really just what i wanted to know, as i would have been fumbling in the dark as to what product to use.

Kalman thanks for pointing out you tube. I forget that there is a lot more content than animal tricks and silly antic videos.

Ray (RAC57)
 
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