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BioChem Division
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1,207 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Some of these are new, some of these are redux

G36 "Sniper"



SOPMOD AK



Barrett M468



G36C



AK74 CQB



MP7A1







G36 Sniper - modified from BBI G36RAS (Bloody Rose) with HT parts
SOPMOD AK - modified from DML AK47 with HT parts
Barret m468 - modified from HT M4 SIR with ACE SPR barrel and custom 6.8mm SPC magazine
G36C - chopped down from a DML G36K
AK74 - modified from BBI AK74 with HT parts
MP7a1 - modified from DML mp7. i'm kinda up in the air about this one, i might remove the M4 stock and replace it with a slimmer MP5PDW type stock.
 

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BioChem Division
Joined
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1,207 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks for the replies.

Hardaway Juice,
on the stock DML mp7, it comes with front and rear sights. the rear site pops off easilly, and you can snap off the front sight with a xacto blade. then sand down the top until it is totally flat. then cut a strip of railed styrene and glue it to the top and paint it black.

here i replaced the m4 stock with a more "PDW" styled stock:

 

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BioChem Division
Joined
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1,207 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i use citadel warhammer paint. i prefer to brush it directly on. i know a lot of people like to use spray paint, but i always hate the way it looks when i do it. maybe im missing something.

but anyway, im much more satisfied with the way brushed paint looks.

the way i do it is by mostly brushing in the same direction and using very little amounts of paint at a time, almost like layering up dry brushing until it becomes solid. also it works best if you paint the entire gun (or the entire area of the gun that should be black, rather than only the spots that need black. for example, when you add styrene and only the styrene part is white, instead of only painting over the white styrene, i paint over the entire gun so that all the black looks uniform. cause no 2 blacks are alike.

for the weathering i take a bit of gunmetal silver and "spot" areas where there would be typical of heavy wear/scratches, especially like hard edges and corners. and then a light drybrush to enhance the metallic areas.

im sure there are better/realistic ways to achieve this but this is how i do it.
 
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