Vehicle HOT TOYS TUMBLER - Color codes and replacing broken parts

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Thread: HOT TOYS TUMBLER - Color codes and replacing broken parts

  1. #1
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    Question HOT TOYS TUMBLER - Color codes and replacing broken parts

    Hi all!

    this is my first post here

    I have been owning Hot Toys figures for years now, been buying and selling them, but now I am more or less fixed on limiting myself to mainly Batman figures.

    But I still have my T-800 battle damaged figure.
    And I am looking to collect main Star Wars figure in the future: just sold my modified Sidehow Vader to replace it for a ESB Vader (curious to see if HT wil bring out a ROT Vader in 1/6), R2D2-C3PO, Maul.

    And also had the first run of HT Robocop figures, I had the one with the flight pack.
    But am interested in owning the superiorly sculpted latter Robo, with maybe a ED 209

    That said, what I currently own is a DX02 TDK bats, Batpod, Armory (basic), '89 Bats and '89 Batmobile.





    Still looking for a '92 Batman Returns though....

    Did a mix up of the DX02 with the Armory head- and necksculpt .



    And had a custom cape wich drapes perfectly and suits the figure equally perfect.

    And so begin this week I jumped on a "cheap" used Tumbler, finally
    However, the first owner was a complete idiot, clearly he was not meant to own 1/6 detailed pieces and treated the Tumbler as a childs toy.
    Full of dust, hard time cleaning it.

    And we have the classic failures, broken flap parts and even a missing parts.
    More specific, I am missing one flap piston and one antenna.
    And of of the steering controls also broke.





    I am in the process of 3D scanning a flap piston and will be offering the 3D scan for sale, as well as sending finished pistons.
    Same for the antenna's.

    As for now, I wont display the damn thing untill those little details are finished, and for these things, its all in the details!

    I would like to know if somebody has any knowledge about the used colors on the Hot Toys Tumbler?
    Wich kind of black for the body and wich kind gold/orange for the flap mechanics are used?
    Or wich existing scale paint matches the one used on this scale model?

    Thx in advance!

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  3. #2
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    Re: HOT TOYS TUMBLER - Color codes and replacing broken parts

    Colors my google searches seem accurate for the golden parts are:
    - Tamiya Acrylic Mini XF-6 Copper
    - ALC110 ALCLAD COPPER
    - Vallejo Mecha Color Copper
    - 171 Humbrol

    But its still a gamble as long as I cant see the paint results in hand.
    Meanwhile I await the 3D scan results.

  4. #3
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    Re: HOT TOYS TUMBLER - Color codes and replacing broken parts

    171 Humbrol proved to light, I bought 805 Koper from "Amsterdam Acryl"

    But with a tad of black from left over Tamiya acrylic paint.

    Its not perfect, but it blends in fairly well with the rest.

    Anyway, I finally got the 3D printed pieces back from the printer, it took him 20 times or more to get it right.
    The pistons were printed in 3 parts: 2 halves of the body and the shaft itself.
    The piston printed here, is the longer one, so you will have to cut the body shorter if you need the shorter one and full up the side where the shaft slides in and out...

    I also lost an Antenna, and they managed to print the head, but not the shaft because its too thin.
    So I sued a toothpick instead

    Some pictures.








    here everything is attached to the flaps:











    I have all the parts in a 3D files (.stl extensions), so you dont have to scan anything, just print it on a 3D printer.
    I did have to sand the halves and the opening for the shaft so it would slide smoothly.

    You can do a better job sanding the actual piston, because you can see on mine, the finish isnt very smooth, but again, in the bigger picture, it blends in well.

    I will post picture of everything installed on the Tumbler somewhere begin March....

    I ask 5$ for all the files, send me a message or PM if interested.
    Last edited by Riko; 01-19-2020 at 09:57.

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  6. #4
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    Re: HOT TOYS TUMBLER - Color codes and replacing broken parts

    I need an antenna for mine so I will be interested in one.

  7. #5
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    Re: HOT TOYS TUMBLER - Color codes and replacing broken parts

    do you have paypal?

    You are aware its only the tip of the antenna? you will have to figure out what to use as a rod...(I used a toothpick wich I sanded to make it thinner so it would fit the whole of the antenna and the whole of the flap.

    Send me a PM with your paypal and I will send you a payment request.

    I ask 2 euro for the piece.

  8. #6
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    Re: HOT TOYS TUMBLER - Color codes and replacing broken parts

    I hope many forum users are reading this thread, because it raises concerns regarding 3D printing that should be relevant to many people. I hope that 3D printing experts in the room will be able to clarify the problem I see here:

    1) Riko, you have done an admirable effort here, and yet, your end result is far from looking as perfect as the original pistons you were meaning to replace. Nobody will notice... except oneself.

    2) You have turned to a professional service for the 3D printing task, which is meant to provide the best results possible. The printing method also seems to have been the one that yields the smoothest results, stereolithography. Yet, you had to print such a small part, that piston, splitting it into 2 halves, be it because of technical limitations or because of cost. That split has a clear impact on the quality of your end result, since the seam is clearly visible even in spite of the paint coating. Then there is the overall surface smoothness and the 3D resolution achieved by the professional SLT printing process: by far inferior to those of the original part. It is quite worrysome that, even in best conditions, quality of SLT might turn out to be visibly less than that of plastic injection. I had expected it to be in the same league as factory-molded parts. :-(

    3) The paintjob must be also discussed, since it interacts with the underlying quality of the 3D printing process (for worse or better), and should be told from it: in some of the pictures I would dare say that the roughness of the resulting replacement part is not exclusively due to the 3D printing process. I'd say there is a further layer of roughness added by the paintjob. You didn't use an airbrush, did you? If you used a brush, maybe the paint application ended up being too thick. Should it be the case, in spite of that excess thickness, the paintjob is clearly incapable of fully covering the aforementioned seam.

    ------

    Do not take me wrong: you have completely solved the problem man. It is just that I am just wondering how come SLT does not yield better results, and to what extent the lower quality of the final replacement part is due to it. Maybe other users here can shed some more light on this perception of mine and prove me wrong.

    Thanks everybody,
    m.

  9. #7
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    Re: HOT TOYS TUMBLER - Color codes and replacing broken parts

    Quote Originally Posted by asgardianboy View Post
    I hope many forum users are reading this thread, because it raises concerns regarding 3D printing that should be relevant to many people. I hope that 3D printing experts in the room will be able to clarify the problem I see here:

    1) Riko, you have done an admirable effort here, and yet, your end result is far from looking as perfect as the original pistons you were meaning to replace. Nobody will notice... except oneself.

    2) You have turned to a professional service for the 3D printing task, which is meant to provide the best results possible. The printing method also seems to have been the one that yields the smoothest results, stereolithography. Yet, you had to print such a small part, that piston, splitting it into 2 halves, be it because of technical limitations or because of cost. That split has a clear impact on the quality of your end result, since the seam is clearly visible even in spite of the paint coating. Then there is the overall surface smoothness and the 3D resolution achieved by the professional SLT printing process: by far inferior to those of the original part. It is quite worrysome that, even in best conditions, quality of SLT might turn out to be visibly less than that of plastic injection. I had expected it to be in the same league as factory-molded parts. :-(

    3) The paintjob must be also discussed, since it interacts with the underlying quality of the 3D printing process (for worse or better), and should be told from it: in some of the pictures I would dare say that the roughness of the resulting replacement part is not exclusively due to the 3D printing process. I'd say there is a further layer of roughness added by the paintjob. You didn't use an airbrush, did you? If you used a brush, maybe the paint application ended up being too thick. Should it be the case, in spite of that excess thickness, the paintjob is clearly incapable of fully covering the aforementioned seam.

    ------

    Do not take me wrong: you have completely solved the problem man. It is just that I am just wondering how come SLT does not yield better results, and to what extent the lower quality of the final replacement part is due to it. Maybe other users here can shed some more light on this perception of mine and prove me wrong.

    Thanks everybody,
    m.
    about the finish, as I said, its not perfect, but that said,

    1) it can be significantly improved by putting more effort in the sanding and filling process.
    I used to fill and sand scale model planes, but tiny gaps....this is actually my first time ever I sanded ánd filled such a tiny thing.

    2) admittedly the parts do come rude from the 3D printing process...but like I said, it can be improved afterwards if you put time and effort in the sanding process.

    3) the original "pistons" body also comes in 2 parts and you also can see the seam..thats the way these things are made, you cannot make that moving "piston" in one time.

    4) when looking in close up, of course the paint job isnt a 100% match.
    Thats true indeed.
    However I am not going to do the effort to make a custom paint job to make it match 100% for such a tiny part...so I'd rather and find a close match.
    And you are 100% an airbrush would really smooth things out I did indeed use a simple hobby brush in an amateuristic.

    But hey, now I got a second chance, since the length of the piston is that of the long version and I needed the short version
    Lets see if I can close the gap this time with the original.

    ps: you talk about "a seam" so its kinda a succes, since there are 2 seams, each on one side, and on top where the rod travels in and out of the body, the "seams" are flush.

    But again, lets see how the adjustment turns out.
    This weekend I'll tacke it.

  10. #8
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    Re: HOT TOYS TUMBLER - Color codes and replacing broken parts

    Quote Originally Posted by Riko View Post
    about the finish, as I said, its not perfect, but that said,

    1) it can be significantly improved by putting more effort in the sanding and filling process.
    I used to fill and sand scale model planes, but tiny gaps....this is actually my first time ever I sanded ánd filled such a tiny thing.

    2) admittedly the parts do come rude from the 3D printing process...but like I said, it can be improved afterwards if you put time and effort in the sanding process.

    3) the original "pistons" body also comes in 2 parts and you also can see the seam..thats the way these things are made, you cannot make that moving "piston" in one time.

    4) when looking in close up, of course the paint job isnt a 100% match.
    Thats true indeed.
    However I am not going to do the effort to make a custom paint job to make it match 100% for such a tiny part...so I'd rather and find a close match.
    And you are 100% an airbrush would really smooth things out I did indeed use a simple hobby brush in an amateuristic.

    But hey, now I got a second chance, since the length of the piston is that of the long version and I needed the short version
    Lets see if I can close the gap this time with the original.

    ps: you talk about "a seam" so its kinda a succes, since there are 2 seams, each on one side, and on top where the rod travels in and out of the body, the "seams" are flush.

    But again, lets see how the adjustment turns out.
    This weekend I'll tacke it.
    1) Wait wait wait: have you used stereolithography or filament extrusion?? Looks like STL to me! My whole point was, as far as I knew, with SLT, no sanding would be needed.

    2) You sure the original piston was molded in 2 halfs? Can't see it clearly on your pictures, but I'd say that, if there is indeed a line, it must certainly be a mold line, which wouldn't necessarily mean that the original part was molded in 2 halves.

    3) You sure are doing a very good job. Don't get me wrong!

    Keep us posted as you advance!
    m.

  11. #9
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    Re: HOT TOYS TUMBLER - Color codes and replacing broken parts

    Quote Originally Posted by asgardianboy View Post
    1) Wait wait wait: have you used stereolithography or filament extrusion?? Looks like STL to me! My whole point was, as far as I knew, with SLT, no sanding would be needed.

    2) You sure the original piston was molded in 2 halfs? Can't see it clearly on your pictures, but I'd say that, if there is indeed a line, it must certainly be a mold line, which wouldn't necessarily mean that the original part was molded in 2 halves.

    3) You sure are doing a very good job. Don't get me wrong!

    Keep us posted as you advance!
    m.
    1. no technical questions.
    I didnt print it, I asked a pro to print it, and it took him about 25 times or so, to get it right. (I had to wait more than two months, you can see the difference between the dates of my update and my inital topic).
    But thats also because he does bigger projects. (he also prints for Volvo when they need urgent parts)
    But because of the tiny scale it didnt work out smoothly...
    And luckily he didnt charge me full...he only charged me 75 euro's for the scanning and the printing and I asked him, how much if you would charge me full, he replied with around 300 euro...
    Normally the scanning is the most expensive process in 3D printing, but because of the repetitive printing, it aint now.

    So I cant answer the printing (nor scanning) part of the realisation.

    2) yep, you have the HT tumbler? you can see the seams (although, much better finished than on my pictures)
    But, you could be right about it being a mold line and not a seam line, I already glued the loose original parts on, but I will leave it.

    3) thx, I'll keep the board updated

  12. #10
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    Re: HOT TOYS TUMBLER - Color codes and replacing broken parts

    Quote Originally Posted by Riko View Post
    1. no technical questions.
    I didnt print it, I asked a pro to print it, and it took him about 25 times or so, to get it right. (I had to wait more than two months, you can see the difference between the dates of my update and my inital topic).
    But thats also because he does bigger projects. (he also prints for Volvo when they need urgent parts)
    But because of the tiny scale it didnt work out smoothly...
    And luckily he didnt charge me full...he only charged me 75 euro's for the scanning and the printing and I asked him, how much if you would charge me full, he replied with around 300 euro...
    Normally the scanning is the most expensive process in 3D printing, but because of the repetitive printing, it aint now.

    So I cant answer the printing (nor scanning) part of the realisation.

    2) yep, you have the HT tumbler? you can see the seams (although, much better finished than on my pictures)
    But, you could be right about it being a mold line and not a seam line, I already glued the loose original parts on, but I will leave it.

    3) thx, I'll keep the board updated
    1) 75€... ouch. Then I can see the problem: your part is a scanned part. Scanning introduces noise (unless postprocessing is applied), hence the irregular finish. 3D modelling the part would have yielded smoother results.
    Concerning your Volvo friend... he must have such enormous, hi-q 3D printers... why splitting the piston in 2 halves then??

    2) Essentially, all plastic molded part have... mold lines. I wonder why pros do not add a postprocessing step after molding, so that those visible lines are minimized or removed...

  13. #11
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    Re: HOT TOYS TUMBLER - Color codes and replacing broken parts

    Quote Originally Posted by asgardianboy View Post
    1) 75€... ouch. Then I can see the problem: your part is a scanned part. Scanning introduces noise (unless postprocessing is applied), hence the irregular finish. 3D modelling the part would have yielded smoother results.
    Concerning your Volvo friend... he must have such enormous, hi-q 3D printers... why splitting the piston in 2 halves then??

    2) Essentially, all plastic molded part have... mold lines. I wonder why pros do not add a postprocessing step after molding, so that those visible lines are minimized or removed...
    yeah, I've seen, a part, of his machines, they are indeed humongous...

    as for the 2 halves, I dunno, he looked at the original and figured it was also a 2 part piece, so thats how he did it, and also because of the moving piston inside, it would be easier to make.


    Anyway, long overdue, lets post some pics of the shortened piston.










    I'll post pictures on the Tumbler somewhere next March....For sure I have to glue and perhaps sand and paint some more, because the original owner ....ed up big time with the side flaps, as you can see on the first post.
    That ....ing idiot!

    At least I am glad how the top wings turned out!

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