Water slide decals - Question?

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Thread: Water slide decals - Question?

  1. #1
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    Water slide decals - Question?

    I am such a ...... when it comes to this, mind you it has been a while since I used water slide decals on anything. I wasted half of the same pattern trying, and it kept braking to a point were it was unusable. I used everything to make the task easier to apply, Solvaset, dry brush, other setting solutions, etc. Felt I was better off painting the decals myself.

    What is everyones take on this? Is there a technique you use to keep decals from breaking on the surface? Any advise you have on making this easier would be great. Thanks in advance.

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    Let me also point out that I am applying the decal on a rough surface, nothing easy for me.

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    It sounds as though the decal may have become brittle from age? Try over spraying lightly with DullCote before soaking the decal.
    ''It is man's perdition to be safe when he ought to die for
    the truth"

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    Actually these decals are not old at all, just got them in the mail a week ago. It is just that they are so delicate that they break too easily. I don't know if I should be adding some kind of bonding adhesive to the water to make the decals stronger or it's just a trial and error each time. That's probably why they come in multiples just for safety sake.

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    Rough Surface?

    If you mean a flat-painted surface when you say "rough", there's an easier way. Coat the surface where the decal will go with several coats of "Future Floor Wax" until you have a smooth surface. You can shoot Future on straight without thinning from an airbrush, just keep the coats light to prevent running. This also makes the decal slide around easier for final positioning and keeps them from breaking. Wait about 24 hours after the last coat of Future before applying the decal. Once the decal is on and set, re-coat the area with Dull Coat and it will blend with the flat painted surfaces around it. The Dull Coat acts as a sealer for the decal and helps protect it as well as keep it from yellowing with age. If by "rough" you mean a surface with alot of detail, the same process helps give the area smoother contours and easier decal placement. Give it a whirl.
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    Couple of things I've found with decals...warm water will make the transfer go easier. Also be sure to wait until you have it fully soaked through, edges curling.
    Don't use your finger to place the decal, use plastic twizers, or failing that, an exacto blade...the oil from your finger will bugger up the decal's ability to 'stick'.

    On a rough surface, folkwulfe gave some great pointers, I use that trick all the time. However, if you want the roughness to come through, you need to use a needle to poke holes into the decal as it sets, letting air out of it so it will 'settle' onto the bumps. This process takes A LOT of time and patience, but the results as amazing.

    Hope this helps.

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    Some suggetion you need to also wet the rough surface that you want to stick the decal so that it will easily glide the decal from the surface. I also do this during my 1/35 model days. hope it helps

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    Great tips all around. Thank you all! I tried them last night and got those decals to work much easier, still some trial and error but better. Using warm water was a plus as well, thanks for that tip.

    Much appreciated!

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    This rough surface is actually a pitted M1C metal helmet so moving the decals around was a task.

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Water slide decals - Question?
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