Need some Sculpey help [Archive] - OSW: One Sixth Warrior Forum

View Full Version : Need some Sculpey help

12-06-2012, 19:19
I'm trying to teach myself how to sculpt heads. I'm having trouble getting everything symetrical so I made a cast of a head and added bits of Sculpey to change it up. I'm using some Sculpey liquid softener to brush out the tool marks and then a hair dryer set on hot to cure the bits. Problem is that tiny bubbles are forming on the thinned out areas where it's blended into the casting. Is this from too much heat, not letting the softener dry or what?

Any help would be appreciated.

12-07-2012, 01:27
How soon are you heat curing after using the softener? And how much softener are you using?
I tend to use rubbing alcohol as my smoother *cheap!* and noticed that sometimes it builds tiny airbubbles here and there from my working the brush around.

Another problem could be air bubbles already trapped beneath the surface of the sculpey.
In traditional ceramic type clay air bubbles will expand and potentially burst a potter or sculpture's work during firing. I've burnt a few sculpey sculpts in my oven a few times and noticed trapped air bubbles expanding as well.

I've not experienced it in the same way you are though, how hot is your hair dryer? I'd move it around a little if its blasting at one spot, perhaps it's making the head material malleable and separating it from the sculpey?

12-07-2012, 08:19
I've seen bubbles from too much heat. Keep the heat moving all the time.

12-07-2012, 17:31
I think it was too much heat. I tried another little section just using a ciggarette lighter and worked fine.

Thanks for the help.

12-09-2012, 11:57
Why not use greenstuff? It air dries.

Newton Gimmick
12-10-2012, 23:59
I've always had issues with sculpey never fully drying. I never made full heads though.

12-11-2012, 07:25
CC- My goal is teach myself how to sculpt. I know I'm going to mess up a bunch so I'm using something I can just wad up & re-use. I am having trouble getting a whole head sculpted symetrical so I thought I'd practice on a cast head.

Newton- I'm having the same problem, some little area not curing fully. I did half a head -really bad sculpting but I wanted to see what the clay looked and felt like after cooking. I think I baked it @ 250 F for about 20 minutes, came out hard as a rock and slightly darker.

02-10-2013, 12:14
I am new to action figure and statue collecting, but I have 20 years of figure kit prototype sculpting (lucky for you guys).
Polymer Clays: (Polyform Products Co. brands)
Grades are:
1. Sculpey(white stuff), for kids no durability but chaepest.
2. Sculpy III(Sculpey in colors) for kids), same grade as Sculpey.
3. Super Sculpey(beige translucent Caucasian flesh color, light grey color) Use this stuff. It has better machining characteristics after baking and is more durable for sculpting heads, shoes and other bulky parts. For hands or thin parts, it is not so tough and will break. For thin parts use a wire core.
4. Premo(comes in colors) This is the best, because it bakes to a more impact-resistant hardness or it has more flex and is less brittle than Super Sculpey.

NOTE: For durable museum quality figures:
A. Action Figure Joints with Epoxy Putty and Steel will last forever. Example: custom neck pegs with epoxy double ball ends with nails for shafts. Foot Pegs do the same.
Think about making a head core socket female part with epoxy and add polymer clay (Premo) to the outer head. Then you will have a durable socket and a transluscent flesh tone skin. Note: if you know of a rubber head female socket supplier, chime in here! Make epoxy sleave that would fit rubber ball socket!
B. Making parts in colored clay:
Making bald head sculpt in flesh tone; hair in natural colors using premo colored clays is best way to have a museum quality long lived piece. You will notice most of the best action figures are molded in the finish color, so why not do that for your peices as well?
Variable skin tone clay: Making mottled realistic variations in flesh by inserting tan clay onto translucent base color as well as miniature textures.
Variable hair tone with partially mixed clay colors left in stratified layers. Should work for wood accessories too.
C. Epoxy Putties will last a life time.
Use epoxy putties for thin parts or cores of thin parts (use a wire core)(for capes use wire mesh alum.). Most epoxies are toxic and many thin with petroleum products.
Aves Epoxy Sculpt is not toxic, is water-based and comes in colors.
Baking polymer clay:
250% F for 20 minutes. Don't use a cigarette lighter or a heat gun or a hair drier(You won't get the hardness you want)! Use a dedicated counter top electric convection oven not a toaster oven!
Hope this helps...
Wayne THE DANE Hansen
Next up best tools to use...