Wood Grain [Archive] - OSW: One Sixth Warrior Forum

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11-15-2004, 12:34
Hey gents! I've seen some pretty incredible paint jobs on wooden rifle stocks that make them look dead on to the real life worn, beat up stocks that are on somewhat older weapons. I was curious if there are some of you guys out there that might care to share your ideas and recipies of making a crap plastic painted Dragon rifle stock into a work of art :) I'm curious because I've got a Dragon M14 and the stock makes it look like crap, so I want to attempt a repaint! Thanks guys!

Lightning Sword
11-15-2004, 14:40

Try this site:

Woodgraining Made Easy (http://perso.wanadoo.fr/onesixthgallery/tutorials/tutorials.htm)

A nice, simple technique, but very effective. One of the K98s below was done using this technique. I think it turned out pretty good for a first attempt.


11-15-2004, 18:45
Dave, thanks for the link! It will come in handy, but through trial and error, this method doesn't work on Dragon M14s :rolleyes They can't stay consistant to save their lives

Lightning Sword
11-15-2004, 18:56

Let me search around when I get home. I think I have saved 1 or 2 more methods for woodgraining. If you mosey over the 6th, I think fubar IV has a tutorial in the Combat Engineers section. I also kept some notes by Rob Caswell on G43 he tuned up. That also may be somewhere archived on the 6th too.

Lightning Sword
11-15-2004, 18:57
BTW, what happens when you try this method on the M14?

11-15-2004, 19:04
Heres what I did on DML Jeff's M14.

First I gave it a light sanding to get rid of the ridiculous camo crap they put on it. And by light, I mean LIGHT. Don't sand off the detail. Then mask off what you don't want to paint.

Next I took a very dark brown (sorry I don't remember the colour and I don't have any left) And painted everything I thought was wood.

Then I thinned out some Humbrol walnut (another dark brown)2 part acrylic thinner to 5 parts paint. Then is single strokes all across the weapon, I applied this coat of paint. You want to have visible brush strokes as a result.

Last I took Tamiya Nato Brown in the same ratio of 2 to 5 and with the same technique but a wider brush (so you can do the entire weapon in one stoke) apply this coat of paint.

Let it dry then you can use gunmetal on the rest of the weapon. Weather it up as you see fit.

11-15-2004, 19:06
Sorry these pics don't really show off the subtle grain effect that is on the gun. But it is there. Honest. Here is another pic.

11-15-2004, 19:34
HP, that looks great! Especially for what Jeffs rifle looked like before!

Dave, it went from dark brown, straight to black, no inbetween on this one. The one I have is from Nate, the early one, so it's not as detailed, it just has the painted on wood grain. Thanks for lookin for the other tutorials!

11-15-2004, 21:27
i cut off the whole bolt assembally and things and crafted a real wood stock, then stained it. took a week but was fun. i might be able to scrounge out a pic.

Lightning Sword
11-15-2004, 21:53
Fubar IV's tutorial:

Weapon Re-painting (http://p197.ezboard.com/fonesixthnetfrm40.showMessage?topicID=409.topic)

Lightning Sword
11-15-2004, 21:55
A tip from dioman:

the wood parts are painted with oils over acrylics...Tamiya Desert Yellow.....then W&N Burnt Sienna applied and allowed to sit for about 10 minutes...then using a wide fairly stiff brush that is clean and dry you pull the oils off in the direction of the grain....I keep a napkin close by and do a dry brushing motion on it once in a while to keep the brush as clean as possible....if you don't do this you'll just spread the paint around when what you want is to remove it.
Then I let this dry for a few hours and went in with W&N Burnt Umber and put this where I thought dirt might build up and around all details....let it sit for about 10 minutes and then blend it in with a stippling motion.

Lightning Sword
11-15-2004, 21:57
Caswell's G43 Repaint steps:

) Repaint the entire weapon. Start with the wood. Lay down some medium reddish brown. Then go back with a dark brown and paint the wood grain, following the slight recesses in the plastic molded stock. Next mix up a very light brown and dry brush the whole stock. VERY IMPORTANT: brush in the direction of the grain. The dry brushing actually enhances the illusion of wood grain and helps feather the grain stripes. If you want, you can make another pass with a lighter, dustier color to simulate a dusty weapon. If you do this, try to use circular scrubbing motions so that it becomes differentiated from the wood grain dry brush.
3) Now to the metal. Paint all metal with a very dark gray (NOT black - that's too extreme). Then go back and dry brush with Model Master Chrome Silver.
4) Using a fine line black pen (005), run it along the seam separating the wood stock from the wood barrel cover. Use a straightedge to guide you.
5) Dry brush the sling with some light brown. Then apply it to the weapon, gluing the stock-located sling mount into place with CA.

11-16-2004, 00:53
can someone please archivce this thread ???????? this is just what i've been looking for