Collect. Kitbash. Customize. Community. Showcasing the Best of Sixth Scale Modeling.

Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: 1/35 Military Figures Painting

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Switzerland
    Posts
    2,379

    Question 1/35 Military Figures Painting

    i have a dozen 1/35 military miniature figure sets by Dragon lying around here, and i would like to start putting them together for display use.

    however, i'm new to this kind of stuff, and i don't know how to correctly paint them. do you paint all parts before assembly? or do you assemble first, and paint the figure as a whole?

    to apply a camo job, it would make sense to paint the whole figure at once. but other parts like hands and heads would probably have to be painted before assembling the whole figure.

    what is the correct procedure?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    170
    From my 1/35 days a few years ago...I painted after assembly except for the head, I kept it attached to the sprue for easier handling. I painted then washed and dry brushed the uniform before adding the accessories (holsters, packs, etc.). Then finished the hands/head then helmet, beret, etc. There are loads of books available for painting figures, Verlinden's are always good except that they use oils alot, which I never had much luck with. Good luck.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Republic of Joe, Willow Spring, North Carolina
    Posts
    574
    I assemble the figures, stick them on an empty paint bottle (for holding and turning) and paint. Use rubber cement for sticking to the paint bottle.
    "Woof, Woof"

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Posts
    3,866
    I'm used to painting 25/28mm figs. Assembling them before painting is the 'accepted' method, but it's pretty much whatever you feel gives you the best results. Here's a few things I've learned after 14 years of painting minis:

    A) I assemble first, leaving any parts that might hinder detailing on the sprue to be painted seperately, put on the model and then touched up.

    B) When I begin painting I start with flesh areas, and then cover them with a liquid mask. It dries to a latex film that can be washed/peeled/picked off later. This prevents your carefully crafted flesh tones from taking any stray brush stokes.

    C) I prefer acrylics. They're cheap, easy to maintain and clean-up with water. If you plan on doing a lot of wet-blending, use Model Color 'Slo-Dry'.

    D) Your primer dictates your final color. For a dark overall, use a black primer. For more vibrant colors, use white. Got split personality issues? Go with grey, but keep in mind that it's a jack of all trades primer color, but des none spectacularly well.

    E) It's better to apply two (or better still, three) thin coats than one thick coat. This applies to everything from primer, ink washes, basecoat, highlights or varnishes. You end up with better depth of color, and no brushstrokes visible in your paint.

    F) Stay away from matte primers, try and stick to a satin finish primer. Mattes tend to obscure details quicker if you over spray the figure. An ounce of prevention...

    G) Painting has a learning curve, and is a perishable skill. Keep trying, practice, experiment, push your boundries, don't get frustrated. And HAVE FUN with it.

    Product recommendations:

    - Tamiya thin brush on plastic glue.

    - Any Vallejo paints (Model Color and Game Color are favorites of mine).

    - Testors DullCoat (two coats of a gloss varnish, and one coat of DullCoat to finish and protect your minis. A glossy finish ruins any sense of scale)

    - Citadel Color Flesh Wash (Fleshtones made easy. Just make sure you thin it down (Anywhere from 6:1 to 10:1 water to ink.)

    - A glossy white or black ceramic tile (whichever primer color you use). Best palette on the market. It's cheap and dried paint scrapes right off. Toss some rubber feet on the bottom so the wife doesn't yell at you for scratching the furniture.

    - Gesso black canvas primer, available at your local art supply store. (A recent addition to my arsenal.) It's a nice cheap, plentiful black brush on primer with a nice lustre to it, and it takes paint nicely (lots of tooth). Brushing on primer gives you a chance to do some recon, and get a sense of the details on the fire.

    Wow. That was WAY longer than I had meant to go on for. Enjoy you mini paining experience.
    "I'm no stranger to sarcasm, sir." Private Dexter Grif, Red Army, Red vs. Blue
    Fortes Fortuna Adiuvat

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Switzerland
    Posts
    2,379
    some pretty detailed information, thanks a lot. i guess i'll just have to try and find out what technique suits me best, but your tips sure help!

Similar Threads

  1. Opinions sought on McFarlane's Military Mini Figures
    By GIGENE in forum Loose Bits (Off Topic)
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 03-09-2008, 00:33
  2. Origins of rank names in the French military
    By SuperPask in forum Attention to Detail (1:1 Talk)
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 01-26-2008, 14:00

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
1/35 Military Figures Painting
1/35 Military Figures Painting